The wait is over

Godet (Islington)

BARS • First Round

The Skinny: The team behind Binch — a minute French-owned wine bar in Dalston — set up shop in a classic pub on Essex Road. The result, Godet, brings together Binch’s French-first wine list with a selection of British craft beers on tap, a weekday menu from Perk’d Up Burger, and Sunday roasts from the Ingredientist Kitchen.

The Vibe: Victorian features intersect with pink terra-cotta walls (“It’s almost Mediterranean!” my companion gleefully whispered), sage accents, and brass features. On a wet, windy Sunday afternoon, Godet was candlelit, spacious, and a little loud, with half the bar taken over by decks and a vinyl selector.

The Food: Classics done well. The Yorkshire beef sirloin, generous and succulent, paired perfectly with a side of cauliflower cheese (with Black Bomber cheddar and truffle, yes please) and a glass of Sylvain Pataille’s juicy Burgundy, Pinotte. We skipped the sharing plates but couldn’t resist an order of focaccia with miso butter while we waited.

The verdict: Godet expands on Binch’s offering and successfully embraces its London environs — with all the trimmings. –Sophie Duval

→ Godet (Islington) • 382 Essex Rd • Wed-Thu 5-11p, Fri-Sat 5p-1230a, Sun 12-8p • Book.