The lord’s work
Alfie’s (Belgravia)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened last month above popular Belgravia pub The Alfred Tennyson, Alfie’s takes a more refined approach than its downstairs sibling, with an emphasis on British and French classics.
The Vibe: Posh-but-casual, as underscored by the location on quiet pedestrian row Motcomb Street, not far from Harrods. The dining room is chic without being pretentious, as suits the neighbourhood. It has a lively atmosphere, bolstered by the colorful, maximalist wallpaper and trolley service. The decor pairs antiques with contemporary gastropub aesthetics, embodying a quintessential charm that codes more country than city. On a recent Wednesday evening, the crowd was groups of professionals and young couples, although the ambience suits a broad range of diners, particularly on weekend afternoons.
The Food: The menu from executive chef Ben Tish and head chef Stevie Phillip is seasonal elevated British with French flourishes. Dressed Cornish crab garnished with fresh herbs and brightened with lemon and tarragon is a standout, as is the burrata with lovage oil, an apt showcase for peas and asparagus. But it’s the tableside steak tartare, which arrives via trolley, that gets the dining room buzzing. Made to order and presented with toasted sourdough bread, the tartare is well balanced with a zing of capers, hot sauce, and critically, fun. The main dishes emphasize British meat — the roast chicken with morels is rich and comforting — and fish. For dessert, rich chocolate mousse, drizzled with Cubitt House’s own olive oil will hasten your imminent return. On Sundays, Alfie’s has a smaller menu highlighting a sirloin roast and the aforementioned trolley.
The Drink: Although you can opt for a pint from the downstairs pub, Alfie’s drinks menu emphasises wine, champagne, and cocktails. There’s an array of martinis, and the gin list is notably impressive, featuring both British brands and international offerings like Japan’s Ki No Bi Kyoto. The low and no alcohol selection is equally strong, with multiple zero-proof cocktails and a non-alcoholic sparkling wine. The digestif list, curated with Harris Vintners, offers a discerning selection of Armagnac, Calvados, and more.
The Verdict: The Cubitt House hospitality group’s latest is an immediately pleasing addition to London’s pub dining scene, perfect for a casual weekday evening out or a celebratory group outing. –Emily Zemler
→ Alfie’s (Belgravia) • 10 Motcomb St • Mon-Wed 12-11p, Thu-Sat 12-1130p, Sun 12-1030p • Book.