RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: Opened last fall, Fonda is the more casual little sister to Santiago Lastra’s modern Mexican fine dining smash hit Kol. Fonda is still fine dining — albeit a buttoned-down version, with playful interiors and an a la carte menu.
The Vibe: Slick, arty and fun, Fonda fits right into a neighbourhood bursting with galleries, museums, and great restaurants, like next-door Sabor. With the amount of bespoke art and artefacts adorning the colourful walls, it could moonlight as a gallery itself. The most photographed and talked-about feature is Pancho, a bright pink sloth who hangs from the ceiling as diners descend to the lower-ground floor. Made by Mexican designer Fernando Laposse from waste agave fibres from the mezcal and tequila industry, Pancho fits in well with Lastra’s sustainable ethos.
Make like Tom Cruise (reportedly among the restaurant’s A-list fans) and fill the large group table at the back of the room with friends, or book the diner-style booths at the front for catch-ups and excellent people-watching on buzzy Heddon St. For more intimate dates, head to the cosy downstairs Sala Rosa, which can also be hired for private parties.
The Food: Much like Kol, Fonda focuses on Mexican flavours made from (mostly) British ingredients — so don’t expect to find guacamole here. Instead, there’s the sikil pak, a dip made from pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds), accompanied by rectangular totopo crisps for dipping. The menu is divided into the usual starters, mains, and desserts but there’s also a section for the comal, a smooth, hot griddle where Lastra’s team finishes beer-battered cod tacos and baked beetroot tostadas.
Four choices of main follow the same format. A plate of charred monkfish or slow-cooked short rib with bottomless tortillas allows you to assemble your own tacos at the table. The specials should perhaps be renamed ‘new classics,’ as it’s home to a confit scallop with gooseberry and the crispy quesadillas stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and topped with generous amounts of Wiltshire black truffle that are proving to be among Fonda’s greatest hits. For dessert, rice pudding with mezcal custard and/or Santiago’s signature cheesecake.
The Drink: While the food is mostly of British provenance, the cocktails are more Mexican, with an agave-focused menu featuring some of the best mezcals and tequilas, a dedicated Paloma section, and even frozen margaritas. There are four Micheladas made with beer or mezcal and local seasonal flavours, and a wine list showcasing lesser-known regions and grapes.
The Verdict: Vibrant Fonda is a great way to sample Lastra’s highly original, delicious Mexican food without committing to a full tasting menu. –Laura Price
→ Fonda (Mayfair) • 12 Heddon St • Mon 530-1130p, Tue-Sat 12-230p & 530-1130p • Book.