Love actually

Saltmoore (Whitby)

GETAWAYS • Whitby

Whitby has long been a popular British seaside resort for northerners, but not exactly worthy of a weekend trip from London, especially given the six-hour drive. That changed with the arrival of Saltmoore, a luxury wellness resort on the former site of Raithwaite Hall, just off Sandsend beach, 10 minutes outside Whitby. Its revival is the work of Montana Brown, a former Love Island contestant (turned influencer) who teamed up with her former rugby player (turned property developer) partner. Against odds, she’s pulled a blinder. Perhaps it’s her attention to aesthetics, but Saltmoore is simply made for Instagram, and just as good in real life.

Let’s start with the rooms. Ours, the Master Room, had enough floor space to do a cartwheel (I resisted) and came with a four-poster bed and roll-top bath, plonked brazenly in the middle of the bedroom. The bathroom itself was equipped with a walk-in rainforest shower and double sink. I wanted to live in it. The suites are even more lush. The next-door Gorse Suite is painted mustard yellow, with a plush yellow sofa, while the scarlet-themed Orchard Suite has an outdoor bath. Accommodations are divided between the main building, where we stayed, and the new Beach House, which has a more family-friendly vibe.

The food is by Tommy Banks of The Black Swan fame. As with all of Banks’ endeavours, there’s a focus on the local and seasonal, from Whitby crab tart to a hearty sausage and mash from Banks’s own Mangalitza pigs. At the moment, there’s the elegant Brasserie and its adjoining Orangerie, but the resort is soon to launch its fine dining offering, Calluna. There’s also a café by the spa, for bone broths after a dip in the pool (or the sea, if you’re feeling brave).

Located at the meeting of the mystical North Yorkshire Moors and the wild-and-salty North Sea, there’s so much to do, not least in the resort itself (there’s the gym, the pool and sauna, multiple restaurant spaces, and outdoor walks around the lake, with lake swimming coming soon) but also in the surrounding area. Sandsend Beach is a gem of a place, with dramatic cliffs jutting out from the sandy shore. The local food offering includes generous fish tacos at The Fish Cottage and even-more-generous servings at Mary’s Sandwiches, like roast beef with horseradish mayo and a side of gravy, for dipping.

It’s also worth taking the hour’s walk along the windswept cliffs from Saltmoore to Whitby. Once there, you can have your fill of scampi and, of course, climb the 199 Steps to see Whitby Abbey in all its glory (go at sunset for the finest view). But the best part is returning home to Saltmoore’s cosy lounge bar, which is decked out with Chess boards, solitaire, and playing cards. It’s a great spot for after-dinner games and cocktails, a perfect end to a weekend exploring this new luxury retreat on one of the most underrated coastlines in Britain. –Laura Price

→ Saltmoore (Whitby) • Sandsend Rd • Rooms from £200.