Eastern infusion

Zima Notting Hill (Notting Hill)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The second location of Soho’s modern Russian and Eastern European restaurant Zima initially debuted in Notting Hill in February before pausing its opening due to flooding. It eventually re-opened on April 5, much to the delight of the surrounding west London neighbourhood.

The Vibe: The Notting Hill outpost is intimate and warm, with colorful folk art adorning the walls and equally colorful jars of nastoyka lining the shelves. The service is thoughtful and discerning, with cutlery and plates replaced between courses, but the atmosphere is distinctly relaxed. There’s no pretense here — just good food and a communal buzz.

The Food: Classic Eastern European dishes, like borscht and beef stroganoff, are on the menu, of course, but Zima’s culinary approach is exceptionally nuanced. The traditional Zima, a selection of six starters, is the best way to begin if you’re uncertain — the Olivier potato salad, doused with salmon roe, is particularly memorable, as is vinegret salad with beets and pickled mushrooms. The main dishes include hearty options like the creamy stroganoff and chicken kyiv, but the dumplings (pelmeni sibirskie) shine brightest. Filled with beef and chicken, the dumplings are perfectly chewy and served with chicken broth and sour cream. (Order the larger portion, even if you’re dining solo.) For dessert, the medovik, a layered Russian honey cake, is tangy and light, while the syrniki, rich fried pancakes, are balanced by accompanying sweetened condensed milk.

The Drink: Nastoyka, a traditional infused vodka, is the standout offering, and Zima has a long list of flavor choices, from cherry to horseradish. The wine list spotlights more traditional European selections alongside Georgian wines primarily from Tbilvino. There’s a strong cocktail list, which focuses on blending nastoyka and vodka, but Zima also makes space for an array of non-alcoholic choices, including zero-proof cocktails and homemade sea buckthorn lemonade.

The Verdict: Surprising and satisfying in equal measure, particularly for those dumplings. –Emily Zemler

→ Zima Notting Hill (Notting Hill) • 9 Blenheim Cres • Mon-Sun 12-10p • Book.