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Bottarga (Chelsea)

RESTAURANTS • First Word

The Skinny: The Pachamama Group’s latest tribute to Greek cuisine, Bottarga, arrived in Chelsea last November, drawing a lively crowd with Mediterranean-inspired sharing dishes, buzzy atmosphere, and a quirky drinks list.

The Vibe: Modern corner bistro with an artsy cool sensibility. Guests can opt for a candlelit table, a counter spot overlooking the busy kitchen, or in the summer months, an outdoor terrace. It’s distinctly lively, with a constant hum of diners — even on a Tuesday evening, plenty of hopeful diners were showing up at the door (only to be rejected if they were sans reservation).

The Food: Although the restaurant presents itself as Greek, the menu occasionally draws on Spain and Italy. Start with mezze, like the rich tarama and sesame-coated saganaki tapioca bites, coated in hot honey and served alongside grilled pita or sourdough (go for the pita). Starters, including a standout of raw bluefin tuna and roasted red pepper, are small and arrive in a feast-like spread. Other dishes, like a well-executed Greek salad, the creamy bottarga orzo, and crispy lamb belly, are more substantial. For dessert, chocolate burnt cheesecake made in the Basque tradition is a fitting, rich finale that no common human could finish alone.

The Drink: Contemporary takes on classic cocktails are the main draw — take, for example, a twist on the Negroni (a ‘Negroily’) that subs out Campari for the Greek liqueur mastiha, bitters, and olive oil. The wine list focuses primarily on European bottles, with a few Greek selections to complement French and Italian varietals.

The Verdict: It’s a hike for many Londoners, removed from the ease of public transportation, but Bottarga is worth the hassle. It’s more fun at dinner, especially if you score a counter seat. And do stay for dessert. –Emily Zemler

→ Bottarga (Chelsea) • 383 King’s Rd • Daily 12-330p & 530-1030p • Book.