Alphabet soup
abc kitchens (Belgravia)
RESTAURANTS • First Word
The Skinny: From prolific French-American chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, abc kitchens is a slick, veg-forward restaurant within The Emory, the opulent all-suites hotel that opened in Belgravia last year from the group behind The Connaught and Claridge’s.
The Vibe: Like all of Maybourne’s hotels, The Emory feels as exclusive as its postcode, with a discreet main entrance down a side street, a rooftop bar with unparalleled Hyde Park views, and a 10th-floor state-of-the-art cigar room with its own air filtration system. On the ground floor — and featuring a voluptuous, colourful design from Remi Tessier — abc kitchens is more approachable, making it a fun spot for weekend brunches or weeknight dates.
The Food: In New York, Vongerichten’s abc brand is well-known, with farm-to-table abc kitchen (singular), plant-based abcV, and Latin-inspired abc cocina all housed in the same building. In London, abc kitchens (plural) combines all three into one restaurant, with the same commitment to the freshest organic and sustainable produce. This translates to an all-day offering of kale salad with parmesan, tuna tartare with salsa macha, and mains of chargrilled beef tenderloin and a cheddar cheeseburger with herbed mayo. Everything can be shared, from globe artichoke pizza to English asparagus quesadilla. The food here feels cleaner and healthier than your standard French fare (but still, utterly delicious).
The Drink: Head to The Emory Rooftop Bar for a pre- or post-meal cocktail with panoramic views across London, or sip a spring pea and herb martini, or a green juice at the table. There’s also a wine list with French-focused labels and champagnes for every price point.
The Verdict: With snacks from £19, the prices match the postcode, but it’s worth it for a memorable veg-forward meal. –Laura Price
→ abc kitchens (Belgravia) • Old Barrack Yard • Mon-Fri 7-1015a & 12-10p, Sat 7-1015a & 1230-1015p, Sun 7-1015a & 1230-930p • Book.